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当前位置:古代梳妆台上的化妆品
[来源:www.dzhlzj.com] [作者:aoutmy] [日期:17-04-08] [浏览次数:]

花钿   这种化妆方式又称花子、面花、贴花,是贴在眉间和脸上的一种小装饰。口红   古代称口红为口脂、唇脂。口脂朱赤色,涂在嘴唇上,可以增加口唇的鲜艳,给人健康、年轻、充满活力的印象,所以自古以来就受到女性的喜爱。这种喜爱的程度可以从《唐书·百   官志》中看到,书中记:“腊日献口脂、面脂、头膏及衣香囊,赐北门学士,口脂盛以碧缕牙筒。”这里写到用雕花象牙筒来盛口脂,可见口脂在诸多化妆品中有着多么珍贵的地位!   口脂化妆的方式很多,中国习惯以嘴小为美,即“樱桃小口一点点”,如唐朝诗人岑参在《醉戏窦美人诗》中所说:“朱唇一点桃花殷。”   傅粉   傅粉即在脸上搽粉。中国古代妇女很早就搽粉了,这一直是最普遍的化妆方式。据唐书记载,唐明皇每年赏给杨贵妃姐妹的脂粉费,竟高达百万两!对于傅粉的方法,清初戏剧家李渔的见解颇为独到,他认为当时妇女搽粉“大有趋炎附势之态,美者用之,愈增其美”,“白者可使再白”,“黑上加之以白,是欲故显其黑”,鲜明地道出了化妆与审美的关系。更值得深思的是,古人还把傅粉等化妆方式同道德修养相联系,指出美容应与自我的修身养性结合起来,如东汉蔡邕认为:“揽照拭面则思其心之洁也,傅粉则思其心之和也,加粉则思其心之鲜也,泽发则思其心之顺也,用栉则思其心之理也,立髻则思其心之正也,摄鬓则思其心之整也。”这种观点,不仅颇有见地,而且寓意深刻。   额黄   额黄,是在额间涂上黄色。这种化妆方式现在已不使用了,它起源于南北朝,在唐朝盛行。据《中国历代妇女妆饰》中记:这种妆饰的产生,与佛教的流行有一定关系。南北朝时,佛教在中国进入盛期,一些妇女从涂金的佛像上受到启发,将额头涂成黄色,渐成风习。南朝简文帝《美女篇》云:“约黄能效月,裁金巧作星。”这里说的约黄效月,就是指额黄的化妆方式。唐朝额黄盛行时,温庭筠在诗中吟出“额黄无限夕阳山”之句,李商隐也写道:“寿阳公主嫁时妆,八字宫眉捧额黄。”唐朝牛僧孺在《幽怪录》中还专门记述了神女智琼把额头化妆成黄色的故事。至宋代时额黄还在流行,诗人彭汝励歌曰:“有女夭夭称细娘,珍珠落鬓面涂黄。”这些都反映出古代妇女喜欢额黄的情景。   画眉   画眉是中国最流行、最常见的一种化妆方法,产生于战国时期。屈原在《楚辞·大招》中记:“粉白黛黑,施芳泽只。”“黛黑”指的就是用黑色画眉。汉代时,画眉更普遍了,而且越画越好看。《西京杂记》中写道:“司马相如妻文君,眉色如望远山,时人效画远山眉。”这是说把眉毛画成长长弯弯青青的,像远山一样秀丽。后来又发展成用翠绿色画眉,且在宫廷中也很流行。宋朝晏几道《六么令》中形容:“晚来翠眉宫样,巧把远山学。”《米庄台记》中说“魏武帝令宫人画青黛眉,连头眉,一画连心甚长,人谓之仙娥妆。”这种翠眉的流行反而使用黑色描眉成了新鲜事。《中华古今注》中说杨贵妃“作白妆黑眉”,当时的人将此认作新的化妆方式,称其为“新妆”。难怪徐凝在诗中描写道:“一旦新妆抛旧样,六宫争画黑烟眉。” Floral twinkle This way of makeup is also called the flower, crispy noodles, decals, is posted on the brow and face a small ornament. lipstick The ancient said lipstick for fat, fat lip. Fat zhu chi color, besmear is on the lips, can increase the oral bright, healthy, young and energetic impression to the person, so popular with women since time immemorial. The degree of this kind of love can be from the book of tang, the officer, "see, in the book: remember" LaRi offered fat, fat, cream and clothes sweet bursa, grant bachelor of north gate, fat mouth filled with blue ray of tooth cylinder." Here write to fill with the carved ivory cylinder mouth fat, visible fat mouth has how precious position in many cosmetics! Fat mouth there are many ways to make up the Chinese habit in mouth small, for beauty, namely "cherry small mouth a little bit", such as the tang dynasty poet ts 'en-ts 'an in "drunken scene sinus beauty poem", says: "lips a little peach blossom Yin." powder Powder or powder on the face. In ancient China, women have long powder, this has been the most common way of dressing. According to the secretary of the tang dynasty, tang dynasty emperor to Yang sisters powder fee every year, topping 1000000 liang! For powder, the method of early qing dynasty dramatist li yu is unique insights, he thought the woman powder ", a snobbery of tai, the use of, the longer its beauty ", "white can make the white again", "black to white, is the desire so its black", the vivid representation of the relationship between costume and aesthetic. More worth thinking is, the ancients also such as powder makeup associated with ethics, points out that beauty should be combined with personal cultivate one's morality raises a gender, such as the basis of the eastern han dynasty, said: "stay dry face, his heart as the clean, also powder is the sum of the heart also, add powder, fresh and thought of their heart, lustre hair, think with the heart, also with the principle of comb, its heart, also made bun, think the heart is also taken temples are the heart of the whole also." This point of view, not only intelligent, but profound meaning. Huang huang, his forehead is painted yellow between the forehead. This way of make-up now, don't use it originated in the southern and northern dynasties, prevalent in the tang dynasty. According to the Chinese past dynasties women's ornaments, remember: this kind of ornaments, with the popularity of Buddhism. Northern and southern dynasties, Buddhism entered the stage in China, inspired by some women from the paint gold Buddha, the forehead yellow, gradually reveals. In JianWen emperor "beauty" cloud: "the strange star, laid off about Huang Nengxiao month gold." Said about Huang Xiao month here, is refers to the amount of yellow way of make-up. Forehead gold prevailed when the tang dynasty, wen ting-yun YinChu in the poem "forehead gold" sunset infinite mountain of sentences, li shangyin also wrote: "ShouYang princess marry makeup, when eight GongMei forehead gold." Tang Chaoniu monk Confucian in the deep and remote blame record also specifically describes the story about the fairy ZhiQiong of forehead makeup into yellow. To song dynasty when the forehead is still popular, huang poet Peng Ruli song yue: "fine lines female killings have said niang, pearl fall head face painted yellow." These all reflect the ancient women like the forehead is yellow. thrush Thrush is the most popular in China, one of the most common cosmetic method, produced in the warring states period. Qu yuan in "chu ci, big recruit" reporter: "white black, ShiFangZe only." "Black black" means the thrush with black. More common in han dynasty, thrush, and draw more and more beautiful. Xiking miscellanea wrote: "the gentleman, sima xiangru wife eyebrow color such as telescopic mountain, people draw mountains eyebrow." Said this is painted long qing qing curved eyebrows, like the distant beauty. Later develop into use emerald thrush, and is also popular in the palace. Song dynasty length in six yao to describe: "late to cui eyebrow palace, qiao the distant mountains learn." The said m zhuang ji "cao to imperial secretary indigo naturalis eyebrow, eyebrow, even a heart-to-heart very long, people call the fairy of makeup." Instead, the popularity of the cui eyebrow use black pencil the eyebrows became new. "The Chinese ancient and modern note," said Yang, "as a white makeup black eyebrow", when people see this as a new way of make-up, referred to as "XinZhuang". No wonder xu ning described in the poem says: "once XinZhuang old sample, sixth painted black smoke eyebrow."

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